Home Security Checklist- Doors and Windows

Home Security Checklist #2:

Doors and Windows

This is the second in a series of checklists related to home security (the first was about home security while away on vacation). These are suggestions that might make your home less accessible to robbery. We recommend that you seek the guidance of qualified professionals; especially if you have any security-related questions or require a security evaluation of your home.

Exterior doors and windows should be locked at all times.
Outside doors should be sturdy. If they are not they should be replaced or reinforced. Hollow-core, inside doors are too flimsy for security purposes.
Doors should fit frames snugly even if this means reinforcing the frame or replacing the door.
Every outside door, without exception, should be equipped with a dead bolt lock. Locks with extra long bolts can offer additional protection.
Glass doors and doors with glass panels should be equipped with double cylinder locks so that someone cannot break the glass, reach in and open the door.
Chain locks, especially cheap dime store versions, provide little security. Such devices should be limited to permitting the partial opening of a door to establish the identity of a visitor. A better alternative for identifying visitors are peepholes, smalls windows, or video cameras.
Peepholes, ideally with wide angle lenses, should be installed in all solid exterior doors. A peep hole in the door is much better since you do not have to open the door until after identifying your visitor(s).
If the walls of enclosed porches are inadequate to prevent through-the-wall entry, they should be made secure. If this is inconvenient or impossible, at least, brightly light such areas.
Patio and sliding glass doors, should be secured with vertical-bolt locks and equipped with shatterproof or impact resistant panes. A length of broom handle cut to fit the door track can provide an effective, inexpensive auxiliary lock for such doors.
All windows should be equipped with adequate locking devices, preferably key operated, and should be locked at all times.
Iron window guards can offer protection, but provision must be made to allow the use of some windows for emergency evacuation of the building. Interior removable or folding guards are recommended for this purpose.
Casement windows, though less hazardous than double hung windows, nevertheless require adequate locking devices, preferably key operated.
Windows above ground level require less protection than ground level windows only if they are generally inaccessible. This means they cannot be reached via climbing trees, vines, a ladder or parts of the house to reach. If in doubt protect them as if they were at ground level.
Windows used for ventilation should be lockable both in closed and in partially open positions. Locks for this purpose are commercially available.
All wall openings large enough to admit a person should be protected with grates or heavy screens.
The putty securing windowpanes should be periodically checked and replaced as necessary. Also, impact resistant glazing material, though expensive can be an effective burglar deterrent.
When removed, window unit air conditioners provide easy access to a home. Therefore, window unit air conditioners should be anchored to prevent their removal.
Attached garages are especially hazardous because if the security of the garage is breached, an intruder could gain entry to the house with little chance of being seen. Even if not attached, garages often contain tools, ladders and other equipment that would make breaking into the house relatively easy.
Roll up garages require two locks, one on each side of the door because upward pressure on one side will raise the other side enough for a person to slide under through the opening. Some garage door assemblies have holes pre-drilled in the tracks. Padlocks inserted through them will provide excellent and relatively inexpensive protection.
Cane bolts and sliding hasps, also used for the garage, are inexpensive and highly effective auxiliary locking devices.
Doors of attached garages should be equipped with locking devices as secure as those protecting the front door.

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